Monday, October 16, 2006

The road from Boston to St. Augustine, Florida, the East Coast leg of the trip, has been spectacular. The combination of interesting cities, delectable food, historical stops, transitioning culture, and quality-company has made every mile of the east coast enthralling.

You would think that parking in New York could cause major problems, and it normally does, but due to perfectly aligned connections I was able to achieve VIP status in a conveniently located underground parking facility. Having your car towed in Boston: $110. Having someone scrape against the side of your car while parallel-parked in Boston: $300. Having a protected place to park when you get to New York City: Priceless. A week in New York goes by a lot faster than a week in any other city. There is more than a lifetime of activities, restaurants, sights, and museums to experience, so I had to pick and choose my activities wisely. To be productive, most days I woke up around noon. I figured that I deserved this now, because I had been on the go almost every day since leaving Santa Cruz, and with the changing time zones and various levels of sleep quality, I could use the refueling, after all, I am on vacation. I had the pleasant fortune of having magnificent weather, which made afternoons watching softball in Central Park, a trip to the top of Rockefeller Center, “The Rock,” at sunset, and evenings out in the Greenwich Village, Upper East Side, and Brooklyn, all possible. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, on the edge of Central Park, was very enjoyable afternoon activity. Like the city itself, the museum is also extremely large. With copious amounts of art pieces and exhibits to enjoy, I was forced to speed-walk to all the specific sections and displays that I thought I would enjoy, and essentially skipped everything else. Also like the city, there is just too much to see at “The Met.” Anyway, I’m not too keen on spending large amounts of my days wandering in cavernous museums when I could be watching football and checking out the happy hour scene at neighborhood bars and restaurants. I mean seriously, you only live once.

New York has a great selection of food. I’m not really sure if I remember all that I had to eat, but I do remember that it was bueno. There is plenty to debate when it comes to New York restaurant cuisine, as anyone who has read, or seen, “American Psycho” would know, but I’m pretty sure that I ate at all the best New York City restaurants. Debate over. Well, maybe not all of the upper echelon, but everything was great at the time, and I am on a budget. Everything from Turkish falafel, Jewish deli, sushi and Max Brenner Chocolate By The Bald Man all provided the great meals you would expect from NYC’s smorgasbord of eateries.

If you ever drive south off of Manhattan Island into New Jersey do so in the early evening. The skyline of the city, looking over your left shoulder when you emerge from the tunnel, is absolutely picture-perfect. I was driving at the time in pretty heavy traffic, therefore no picture was taken, and you’ll just have to take my word for it.

Although I have been to Washington D.C. on a number occasions, I feel that each time I go back, my visits just keep getting better. Perhaps as I get older I become more aware and appreciative. Perhaps it’s simply timing and luck. Whatever it is, D.C. is a city that I will never grow tired of visiting.

Walking amongst the monuments of Lincoln, Jefferson, Washington, and Roosevelt and the Vietnam, Korean, and World War II memorials, certainly inspires and mesmerizes. There is something about the layout of the Washington Mall and the size & significance of the monuments that make the whole thing seem out of place. It takes me back to all those hours in American and World history, political science, and government classes and really puts the achievements of great people, the brutal reality of war, and scope of national and individual accomplishment into a new perspective. My personal significance is put into a new perspective as well. And I digress…

The Electric Six concert at The Black Cat was a concert for the ages. With no shortage of showmanship, the E6 rocked through all their dance-rock staples, mixed with some work off their new album. In a room slightly larger than most high school classrooms, the E6 kicked up the tempo with the encouragement of “bailamos,” and played to the crowd’s demands, except for the hit “Synthesizer” off their first album. I can’t even count the amount of times that I have sung along with “Dance Commander,” “”Dance Epidemic,” or “Electric Daemons In Love,” and now I singing and dancing along with the loony front man, in D.C. of all places. The show was great, the beer was good, the Pizza Mart pizza afterwards was everything I had dreamed of.

Honestly, the food in DC matched that of New York. Amsterdam Falafelshop is certainly a must do when one is in DC. Better than many suggestions in “Roadfood,” the Falafelshop provides the precious opportunity to create an over-stuffed pita of joy with your own hands for under six dollars. You can create an edible orb, about the size of a size two soccer ball, filled with incredibly fluffy falafel nuggets, hummus, babaganoosh, chopped garlic, roasted vegetables, other stuff, and more other stuff. Order up some crispy fries, stick one in the top like a fuse, and you got yourself a pretty bomb little feast any hour of the day or night. Right down the street is aforementioned Pizza Mart, another all night eatery of notoriety. The shop serves slices of pizza up lightning quick the size of your torso for like three dollars. Whatever hangover you may have had in the morning is sopped up in the two pounds of pizza dough that you put in your stomach, and the next day you don’t crave breakfast until noon. When you do have breakfast I recommend the pulled pock sandwich at Jesse and Erin’s apartment. Scrumptious and free. Now that’s a good deal. D.C. ended up being the perfect mix of music, nightlife, site-seeing, food, and good people that epitomizes what this trip is all about.

When traveling down the east coast, D.C. feels like the final checkpoint before crossing the imaginary line that separates the “north” from the “south.” I’m not saying that all of Virginia has that distinctive southern feel, but you do start noticing large numbers of cars parked in front of trailers, an increase in the size of the people’s guts, and the infamous “Waffle House” and “Cracker Barrel” combination at every freeway exit. (Explanation to come.) The stop in Virginia Beach was negatively tainted by the mysterious disappearance of Lea’s phone charger, a phone earpiece, and my iPod Nano from our hotel room. While plugged into charge, these items took a walk, never seen by myself, or hotel staff, again. Oh well. I was pissed, but in retrospect I feel that it was a deserved punishment for breaking the cardinal rule of staying in hotels: Never leave valuables in plain site. New travel declaration: I will never stay in a HoJo Hotel again. With long sandy beaches, miles of shops, bars and restaurants, I could imagine Virginia Beach bustling with lobster-red frat guys, glossy girls, and soldiers on military leave, but there really wasn’t much going on in the ol’ VB except for a few beach goers and the typical riff-raff that congregates in beachside communities. A strange thing about Virginia Beach was that all the restaurants, whether independent, chain, or affiliated with a hotel, have fundamentally the same menu. A couple steak options, a couple burger options, some seafood, and perhaps some salads make up the bulk of every restaurant’s offerings for almost identical prices. There was very little diversity, which was disappointing, so Lea and I went to “Rock Fish” twice in one day to take advantage of the ridiculously cheap afternoon Ahi tacos and nightly free crab appetizers. Their marketing scheme was successful & I was in dollar taco heaven. Sadly, like the restaurant menus, the town of Virginia Beach has little diversity or culture to offer. You are limited to the long beachfront, and harbor area that make it a nice, but not exactly stimulating place to visit. Lets move on shall we…

Williams Street Bar B Que, in who-knows-where North Carolina, was a decent introduction to southern-style pulled pork and NC b-b-q sauce, which is vinegar not tomato based. The sauce is watery in consistency, similar to salad dressing, but full in flavor. The strong vinegar presence provides a unique tang, and although it sounds intimidating, the stuff is almost addicting as Moreno’s salsa. This would be the first of oh so many pulled pork experiences.

Now, South Carolina feels like “the south.” There is no mistaking the distinctive southern drawl, the use of ya’ll, and the fact that the excuse for hotels not having wireless internet is, “Uh, well, you’re in the south.” There are aspects of Charleston that are extremely charming and make it a splendid place to visit, but there are some subtle nuances and idiosyncrasies that make Charleston’s atmosphere a little uncomfortable. Well, uncomfortable may not be the best word. How about, eccentric? Well, I can’t think of the right word exactly. The people are very pleasant, and the city seems quite safe and is remarkably beautiful, but there is a denial of the past, mostly pertaining to slavery, and an embracement of succession and confederate pride that composes Charleston white culture. For instance, the Magnolia Plantation and Garden, just outside Charleston proper, is a beautiful expanse of informal, but intricate, English gardens, moss filled trees, murky swamps, well-manicured fields, pastures, and stables. While exploring the grounds it became evident that one key element of southern plantation life had been purposely downplayed, and that was the role of slaves. The slaves’ quarters were described as “antebellum cabins,” and for the most part the slaves were simply referred to as “gardeners,” or “hands.” One of the few references to slavery on the property was the description of how the property owner had risked his own neck to provide the slave children with educational and religious studies, a practice that was outlawed in South Carolina at the time. The depiction of the pre-Civil War plantation came across as some sort of quixotic haven for the slaves, where they could work, learn, and live as if the property owners were doing them a favor by having them there. According to the information given on the tour of Fort Sumter, more slaves were brought into the United States through Charleston Harbor than any other city. Additionally, in the middle of town stands a long wooden-roofed open market that was originally used as a slave-trading market, but today is much like a farmers/crafts market on certain days of the week. Although there is mention of the original use of the facility, the references are quite subtle.

It is quite evident that Charlestonians try to downplay the role of slavery, but they take pride in showcasing their role in the Civil War and succession. In front of elegant bayside southern mansions on the East Battery, “Don’t Tread On Me” and “Stars and Bars,” flags are proudly displayed. “Don’t Tread On Me” was the slogan, and symbol, of South Carolina’s battle of wills to maintain the Southern way of life while facing Union demands on slavery laws. “Stars and Bars” was the original Confederate flag until soldiers realized that looked exactly like the Union’s “Stars and Stripes” when the wind wasn’t blowing. The fact that the Civil War started in Charleston is another source of local pride. Fort Sumter, which sits out on a sandbar in the Charleston Harbor, where the Ashley and Cooper Rivers collide, was the site of the first Civil War clash between Union and Confederate soldiers. I won’t go into detail, but to spare you the suspense, I will tell you that no one died in the bombardment of the Fort, and the Union soldiers who surrendered at Sumner were allowed to travel safely back to New York. Seemed like an awful friendly way to start such a bloody conflict, but nevertheless the Civil War began and to this day it appears that a significant population in the South don’t regret it happening. Perhaps they would if General William T. Sherman had decided to burn Charleston to the ground like every other city in the South, with the exception of Savannah. Another noteworthy factoid from the Fort Sumnter visit and then I’ll quit the history analysis, was the recreational activities of the soldiers stationed there. Abner Doubleday, the credited inventor of baseball, orchestrated some of the first “’formal” baseball games every played on the marching grounds of the Fort. This is interesting to me, because two weeks earlier I learned of this at the Baseball Hall of Fame, and a few days after visiting Charleston I would see the first picture of a baseball game ever taken at Fort Pulaski in Savannah, Georgia.

I may be coming off as having a negative impression of Charleston, but I really don’t. I was amazed at how preserved the original housing was, and the bayside walkways were as beautiful as anywhere on the California coast. The pulled pork was good. Bubba Gump Shrimp Company was fun. There is a lot to be admired in Charleston, even if they would prefer to be apart of another country.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

Fuckin'A, Amsterdam Falafel rocks! You been there too? I wanna another, I wanna another, mother! A.

Anonymous said...

Hey, great blog! Glad you're back on line. Looking forward to my own trip down South, someday, again. It has been years. I don't think they had anything called "pulled pork" sandwiches. I think they called them bbq pork sandwiches back in the '60's when I last traveled through. Hey, keep the lines open. Bob